My Suitcase Life: Freetown Frenzy

Winding streets seemingly over capacity with buzzing motorbikes weaving in and out around vehicles of all shapes and sizes instantly made me exhausted just taking it all in as I entered Freetown for the first time. Moving further into the capitol city of Sierra Leone the streets became narrower as the number of people on them increased. To my left were mountains—a beautiful sight even with houses dotting the sides. To my right I caught glimpses of the sea, offering reprieve from the business going on around me.

Mr. Moiforay, a lecturer and livestock nutritionist, had been working on a sustainable agriculture project that will help villages raise livestock intensively. Certain crops grown for the program can be used for income and livestock feed. His project partner Mark from Nigeria was at Njala for a week for them to discuss the progression of the program. They let me tag along to sites and sit in on meetings…and I was very excited to be joining them on a day trip to “Town” taking Mark to the airport. When I flew into Sierra Leone, we completely bypassed Freetown!

There wasn’t much time for sightseeing, but we did get to park and walk up a crowded street with vendors selling food and other goods. Lexi mentioned this particular off street looked like a scene from a movie and it really did! This was my first experience with a major city in a less developed country. For some reason I pictured Freetown being the frontrunner to development in Sierra Leone, instead it seemed that poverty struck hard in the city. Mr. Moiforay said unemployment is rampant, but many don’t want to move to the interior to engage in agriculture or other possible income generating activities. It means something if you can say you live in Freetown. The city’s population boomed during the war when much of the rural population fled from the rebels…many never returned. Building codes do not seem to be followed as houses are constructed on slick hillsides and in lowlands vulnerable to flood. I saw many walking around selling bread, toiletries, and other random goods…most having the same thing for the same price.

The street led us to an ATM, which I think is maybe one of two in the entire country. THAT is an adjustment. Lexi and I were able to pull out some Leones…imagine carrying around $100 worth of $1 and $2 bills…a nice little wad of cash. After taking care of business and letting Mark do a little bit of shopping, it was time to head to the airport.

Now, in order to get to Lungi Airport from Freetown, you have to cross the sea. All are not without risks. Options include helicopter, ferry, speedboat, traditional boat, or you can go around the sea by car via terrible road. On the way there we parked the truck and took the ferry. On the 30 minute ride we got a great view of Freetown from the water. First class tickets were purchased for us, which meant we were in a room with cushion seats, access to soda and we could purchase DVDs of the music that was playing way too loud. Upon docking, we had to take a taxi to get to the airport. We made it safe with no incident and said our goodbyes to Mark.

Upon arriving back at the port we learned that the ferry would not return for another two hours, so Mr. Moiforay decided we try a speedboat. Walking around the port to a neighboring beach took us into another world. There were a few stands set up and about a half a dozen large wooden boats tied to the land. One was being filled to the max with Sierra Leoneans all while being bombarded with people selling food. After a long wait and lots of negotiations (which Mr. Moiforay handled), the trio crawled into a small wooden green speedboat. Lexi and I refused help from the men around, because we learned that they expect pay for helping you into the boat! Excited and VERY nervous, I put on the orange lifejacket offered to me. Of course, mine didn’t zip, so I hoped that tying the string around my waist would do if we were to capsize. We puttered away from the shore and then BAM! Full throttle. Large waves. I was tossed off the seat a few inches. Mr. Moiforay had is arms stretched across the boat holding both sides saying, “Jesus, Jesus, Jesus.” I let out a few squeals and Lexi a few laughs. The “captain” decreased the speed a bit and I became more comfortable, but the seat was not less hard as we were being jolted around. After realizing I may not meet my maker that day, the ride became a thrill! Freetown from the little boat was even more of a sight…and the few other passengers got a kick of the two white girls shrieking with laughter.

We made it, and Mr. Moiforay said he would never take a speedboat in the evening again.

Joyful Journeys,

Julie

PS-I will spend two days in Freetown before departing staying at an orphanage, lying on the beach, doing some shopping and saying goodbye to Sierra Leone.